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INTERVIEW WITH 2009 NATIONAL CHAMPION KOLOHE ANDINO
Kolohe Andino Interview: Q & A with the 9-time National Champion
By: Janice Aragon
KOLOHE WITH HIS SCORCHER MODEL!
At the age of eight, Kolohe Andino entered his first contest in the Southwest Conference Mini Grom division in September 2002. He went on to qualify for the 2003 National Championships and placed fifth in his first Nationals appearance. The following year he was basically unstoppable on the west coast while beginning his rapid ascent onto the national scene. In 2005 he won his first National title in the Open Mini Grom category. He compiled a five-year-streak of National titles from 2005-2009. In 2009, Kolohe was the overwhelming favorite to take the National Open Juniors title. Instead he floored everyone when he achieved the ultimate prize of youth surfing winning the Open Men’s. “NSSA is the place where all my dreams and goals started,” Andino said. “And winning the Open Men’s at the Nationals is the overall dream.” Andino shattered the NSSA record books in multiple facets: At 15 years and 97 days old, he became the youngest surfer to win the National Open Men’s title. He also added three more National titles to his resume in 2009 which brought his total to nine breaking the male record of seven previously held by current ASP World Tour surfer Bobby Martinez. He became the first son of a NSSA Champion to win a National Open title more than 20 years after his father Dino took the Open Men’s crown in 1985. Andino’s accomplishments put him on a list with the sport’s elite which includes Martinez, Andy Irons, Bruce Irons, Taylor Knox, Kalani Robb, Fred Patacchia, Greg Long and Patrick Gudauskas. From his first contest back in 2002, Andino worked on developing and polishing the spectacular talent he was blessed with. With the help and guidance of his dad, Dino, a former National Open Men’s Champ and ASP standout, young Kolohe was ready, willing and able to step up his game. Tons of hype has followed his young career but Kolohe has shown us time and time again he can emerge from all of it, pushing the boundaries and living up to the challenges. He showed up to the SW Open Season at Oceanside Harbor and once again annihilated his heats en route to the victory in the Men’s. During the event, he sat down with me to answer some questions about his big Nationals victory and his rise to the top of the amateur leagues.
Janice Aragon: You ended up winning the big prize but what happened in your Juniors quarterfinal shocker?
Kolohe Andino: Basically there was one set wave in that heat, really inconsistent. I was in second and Lahiki (Minamishin) needed an 8.0 score to advance and at the end of the heat he ripped a wave and got an 8.75.
Did that frustrate you?
Yeah, the year before I lost in the very same round, the very same time, the same exact heat and the very same day. Then I went out in my Open Men’s heat that year and got a 9.0. I was only 14 so it fired me up. This year, the same thing happened and it fired me up again. I was bummed because I lost in the Juniors but I had to re-group because I had an Open Men’s round three heat soon after. I knew I had to step it up. I definitely didn’t want to lose again. Luckily I had a couple more divisions to compete in.
What was your strategy going into the Open Men’s final?
My strategy was just like any other heat. I like to start quick, try to build on my scores and not take bad waves. The Men’s final is such a long heat and anything could have happened. I was trying to go for it but at the same time just make my waves. That was my strategy and it worked.
Do you think you have an advantage living in San Clemente and surfing the Nationals in basically your backyard?
I definitely have an advantage living there and surfing Lowers almost every day. I live up on the hill so I know how and where the waves are going to break. My shaper Mayhem lives closer to Lowers than I do so he is super knowledgeable about how the boards work there.
Your win in the Open Men’s and Explorer Boys divisions took your National title count to nine, passing the former male record of seven held by Bobby Martinez.
When I first started NSSA, I never thought I could be able to catch or beat Bobby’s record because I could never picture myself getting up on this podium seven different times. And then five days before the event started at the Creek, I found myself having the goal of trying to beat his record. For me to get nine and break the record is just crazy.
Do you feel any pressure being one of the most prominent Junior surfers, not only in this country, but in the world?
I really don’t feel any pressure. I love all of the exposure and the movie parts that I get. I’m just trying to have fun and win some contests as I grow older. A lot of people think I have pressure from my parents and sponsors and stuff but I don’t have any of that.
When you go into the bigger events do you feel more pressure?
I focus at any event I surf in. I like to try hard and try to win whatever event I enter. I do train harder for the bigger events, like the Nationals.
Who is your favorite professional surfer?
My favorite pro surfer right now is Dane Reynolds because of his movie parts-they are just ridiculous. He is my hero and he’s ripping so hard, even in his heats it’s just amazing. Kelly is my favorite competitive surfer because he wins so many events and he’s American. I love to watch him win.
How about NSSA surfers?
Conner Coffin, he’s actually one of my favorite surfers. We battle all the time and it’s great to surf against him. I’m just psyched to beat him in heats sometimes.
You are arguably not only the most well-known teenage surfer in the world; you are one of the most gifted. How do you think you got to this level at 15-years-old?
I’ll definitely say how I got to this stage is from my dad. He’s been pushing me ever since I was 7 or 8. And he continues to push me. It’s a lot about my dad’s influence. Billabong sent me on some really great trips and I’m really thankful to them for that. Surfing with some of the best guys in the world has really helped a lot to where I’m at right now.
Who do you think has influenced your surfing the most?
I use to like Taj Burrow a lot during the Montaj days. He is still one of my favorite surfers. When he first came out with Montaj I was obsessed with it. When I watch myself surf I think I surf a little like Taj with my arms. A lot of people say I surf a little bit like Mick Fanning. I’d say Mick and Taj are the ones who have definitely influenced my surfing the most.
Who is your favorite sports figure?
My favorite sports figure is Kelly Slater and Kobe Bryant. I love Kobe because he has that will to win and he is so clutch. In the NBA finals, when he was playing with a broken finger he said “I just really need to feel the pain before I start turning it on.” That was so inspirational to me because I’m kind of a wimp when it comes to pain-everything needs to be perfect for me. Kobe is just gnarly. Kelly is also one of my favorites because he wins so many events. I love watching him surf in contests because he is just the best competitor ever in heats.
If you didn’t surf, what sport would you compete in?
I play lots of ping-pong so maybe tennis or ping-pong.
What is your favorite subject in school?
My favorite subject is definitely math. It just comes easy to me. I like it a lot more than writing or reading. I’ve always been into math. I’ve always had this desire to become a scientist.
After surfing, what career path do you think you will follow?
After surfing I would like to start my own company. I really like clothes-cool clothes that look good. Or maybe whoever I end up riding for at the end of my surf career, I would go into team managing or commentating. But I think starting my own brand would be the way to go, because there is more money and better opportunity in that.
What boards are you riding now?
My whole life I’ve been riding Mayhems. I recently got my own model-it’s called the Scorcher. I love it. What I’m riding at the moment is 5’8 1/2” 18 1/8” and 2 1/8”.
So how did the Scorcher come about?
Mayhem made me a board to take to last year’s World Championships. It was a different board he called the Scorcher and it had a great shape. It had lots of kick in the tail and all this concave and little bit of vee. It had the qualities of both the Stealth and the Speed Demon 2 that he designed. He said just go try it and I rode it at Worlds and it worked so amazing in small waves. I really loved it. So he just made it my model and I’ve been seeing a lot of people riding it. I’m really stoked on that.
Where is your favorite place to surf?
My favorite place to surf is probably Indonesia. I just love it there. After the Nationals I went to this place called Telos, a little bit north of the Mentawais. There are some crazy waves there. I had a blast there, it was so much fun. I’d love to go there again.
Could you ever just be a photo surfer?
No, I’m way too competitive to be just a photo guy. Maybe if it was a photo challenge where it involved beating someone but I just don’t ever see myself being a photo surfer.
What are your thoughts on winning the Open Men’s?
I’m the youngest person to ever win it and that’s pretty crazy. Open Men’s is the overall dream and I’m stoked I have accomplished that. I just wanted to do my best and surf my best and for me to win the Open Men’s and be carried up the beach at my home spot by two of my best friends Luke Davis and Ian Crane is priceless.
I told your dad we were doing this interview and asked him if there was any question he wanted me to ask you. He said “ask him what he likes best about surfing in NSSA?”
Surfing in NSSA taught me about surfing in contests. NSSA always has great events and it brought me to great, different surf spots. But one of the best parts about NSSA contests is always getting to hang with my friends. NSSA brought all my best friends together. I met all my friends here and I’ve had the best of times being at all the events. I love you guys too. It’s always great to see you and Gayline and all the NSSA staff.
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INTERVIEW WITH 2008 NATIONAL CHAMPION NAT YOUNG
INTERVIEW WITH NAT YOUNG
NSSA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR JANICE ARAGON GOES ONE ON ONE WITH THE 2008 NATIONAL OPEN MEN’S AND GOVERNOR'S CUP CHAMPION
NAT SHOWCASING HIS EXPLOSIVE BACKSIDE.
photo: kenworthy
Imagine being a National Champion at something. Whether it’s swimming, track & field, tennis, golf or surfing it really says something. It’s a memory and achievement that will last a lifetime. Most people will never be able to draw on that feeling. This year, Nat Young hoped that the final snapshot of his NSSA career would include a National Championship. On June 28, 2008 in front of an electrifying crowd, the 17-year-old from Santa Cruz captured the National Open Men’s Championship and California State Parks Governor's Cup title in good 4-6 foot surf at Lower Trestles beating arguably the event’s leading prospect Granger Larsen. The Open Men’s final is a 35-minute test full of tension and pressure, despite everyone’s attempts just to make it another fun heat. However, everyone knows winning in the national spotlight is about a place in history. “I was pretty nervous going into the final,” Young said. “I told myself I was going to try and free surf the heat. Usually after I get a good wave in a heat, I kind of relax, but I didn’t calm down in that heat because Granger got a good one right after mine. I knew I had to get another good score. I definitely wasn’t relaxed.”
Born with the famous name he shares with Australian surfing icon Nat Young and the unparalleled Hall of Fame baseball player Cy Young, Young is certainly developing into a premiere athlete in his chosen sport. Only a handful of Northern California surfers have reached National Championship success, and no one in the highly touted Open Men’s category. Young made history becoming the first surfer from Santa Cruz to win amateur surfing’s most prestigious crown and he recognizes its significance. “That would be cool if my accomplishments would encourage more kids to compete in NSSA contests,” Young said. “Hopefully it will inspire more kids to start surfing and going down to the Southwest to compete instead of just staying in Santa Cruz.”
When you consider how many National Champions such as Bobby Martinez, Andy Irons, Bruce Irons, Rob Machado, CJ and Damien, Fred Patacchia, Taylor Knox and most recently Nathaniel Curran and Patrick Gudauskas have transitioned into the professional surfing’s highest ranks, you’ve got to wonder if Nat Young will follow in their footsteps as he sets his sights on the next level. Hands down, he’s got the drive because it’s not the easiest thing being a grom from Northern California and braving its elements. Factor in his budding talent and competitive savvy, chances are he is going to make his legendary namesakes proud.
NAME: NATHANIEL CY YOUNG
BIRTHDATE: JUNE 17, 1991
SCHOOL: GRADUATED FROM ARK INDEPENDENT STUDIES
HOMETOWN: SANTA CRUZ, CA
LOCAL BREAK: THE LANE
PALS YOU SURF WITH: ASHTON MADELEY, JASON HDEZ, SHAUN BURNS
SPONSORS: O’NEILL, NIKE 6.0, OAKLEY, O’NEILL SURF SHOP, FREESTYLE, SEX WAX, CREATURES, STRETCH, GFH SKATEBOARDS, FUTURE FINS
PULLING OUT ALL THE STOPS AT THE NATIONALS.
Janice Aragon: You were named after two famous people, Australian surf legend Nat Young and Hall of Fame baseball player Cy Young. Do you think your name has given you extra motivation?
Nat Young: No, not really. Just because I was named after a surfer doesn’t mean I had to surf or just because I was named after a baseball player doesn’t mean I had to play baseball.
You've had some time reflect. Has the magnitude of your accomplishment at the Nationals set in?
I’m happy of course. I wasn’t really expecting to win. My goal was just to make a final. I was so happy when I made that first final which was the Explorer Men’s. When I won the Open Men’s, it just didn’t feel real.
What was the difference between your performance in 2007 and this year in 2008? This year, I thought there were better waves. I don’t like having heats at Lowers when it’s small. This year there were more waves and it made it so everyone could catch their own waves. Also last year, I felt like my boards weren’t working for me and that was a problem. I also surfed Lowers a lot this past year and it helped because I felt more comfortable out there.
You didn’t make any finals at the 2007 Nationals. Did you have any flashbacks of 2007 and what you would do different in 2008?
Yes, I did. This year, I just wanted to get a wave right away whether it was a good one or not, start off super quick. In my Explorer Men’s rep, I caught a wave right at the beginning. It scored a 6 and that was a confidence boost because I got a wave in the medium range right at the beginning at that helps.
Your finals performance at the Nationals was amazing. What was your strategy on finals day?
I had three finals and I didn’t want to get too tired. I got fourth in the Explorer Juniors final and sixth in the Explorer Men’s. I didn’t do well in either of those, so I just wanted to do well in at least one of the finals. Luckily the Open Men’s was my last final. To get my mind off of it, I just played video games in the Nike tent. I also just wanted to sit out of the sun. Before my heats, I usually go out surfing and try and catch a couple waves, both a left and a right. But actually before the Open Men’s final, I didn’t surf before the final, It was the only heat I didn’t surf before. I told myself I was just going to try to free surf that heat.
Were you nervous?
Yes, I was pretty nervous going into it. Usually after I get a good wave in a heat, I kind of relax, but I didn’t relax in that heat because Granger got a good one right after mine. I knew I had to get another good score. I definitely wasn’t relaxed.
After you got that first wave and scored a 9.5; you must have had a lot of adrenaline going through your body?
It felt like a wave back home at Pleasure Point. I heard the score announced when I was paddling back out and felt pretty good. But when I got back in the line-up it was a while before the next set came through. So I got nervous again, sitting there waiting all stressed and tense for another wave. I almost fell on the next wave too.
In the final minutes when you were holding down the lead and the ocean went flat, what thoughts were going through your head?
I was just hoping there were no more waves coming. I was sitting the furthest out so if a wave came, I was hoping to catch it and hold Granger off. I was just hoping nothing came. I wasn’t sitting on Granger. It’s actually hard to sit on someone at Lowers because it’s a peak with an equally good right and left so what are you going to do? I was just trying to sit farther out so if a wave did come, I would be in position to get into it before anyone.
How does it feel being the first person from Santa Cruz to win the major amateur title?
It makes me happy. That would be cool if my accomplishments would encourage more kids to compete in NSSA contests. Hopefully it will inspire more kids to start surfing and going down to the Southwest to compete instead of just staying in Santa Cruz.
Do you surf every day?
I surf everyday there are waves and when I’m not driving or flying somewhere.
What’s the secret to your fantastic backside ability?
Surfing the rights at the Lane every day.
What are the advantages of living and surfing in Santa Cruz?
Living in Santa Cruz, there are all kinds of waves. I get to practice on different types of waves, not just beach breaks. At home, there are a bunch of point breaks so it’s good to practice in that. There are also beach breaks so when it’s small I can surf in those conditions which helps for surfing in contests.
What are the disadvantages?
The one disadvantage is there are not many lefts, so I have to travel to work on my frontside. The water is super cold but then it’s kind of an advantage because it makes for fewer crowds.
What is your favorite wave in Santa Cruz?
There are so many good waves when it’s good. And many of the good spots don’t break very often. Probably my favorite is Mitchell’s because that is where I learned to surf and it’s just right down the street from my house. It’s fun because when it’s breaking all my friends are out.
Is there any person who particularly inspired you when you were a grom?
There wasn’t like one person. Local surfers like Kieran Horn, Adam Repogle and Josh Loya have helped me out a lot. Kieran surfs really good and I look up to him. I really liked watching Campaign 1 and Campaign 2. The surfers in those movies inspired me. Kelly Slater was a big inspiration when I was young.
NAT AT GOLD COAST TRAINING GROUND PISMO BEACH.
Not too many surfers from the Northern California region are as dedicated to competition as you are. Why do you think that is and where did you get your competitive spirit?
I’m super competitive in everything. So once I learned how to surf I wanted to do surf contests. I started doing some contests at home and then I did my first NSSA contest in the Gold Coast Conference. My first Gold Coast contest was a great experience. I really liked it a lot so I wanted to keep doing them.
What do you remember about your first NSSA contest?
My first contest was a Gold Coast at Mandalay. I was 13 and competing in the Explorer Boys. I remember I made the final and got second. Andrew Doheny, Quinn McCrystal and Colton Larson were in that final. When I made the final, I was just super stoked. I remember, I learned so much at my first Gold Coast contest. I really liked it a lot so I wanted to keep doing them. I made the top five in the Gold Coast ratings that year and it motivated me to do even better the next season.
Did you play any other sports before surfing?
Yes, I played soccer, basketball and baseball. I started surfing when I was about 11 or 12. Once I started surfing, I basically quit the other sports.
Your mom and you logged in plenty of driving hours. Was all the driving down south worth it for you to develop your competitive skills?
Yes, definitely. I had to go down south and compete in the Open Season to get the experience.
Have you had any guidance or encouragement from the local Santa Cruz pros?
Kieran (Horn) has always guided me on what contests I should be doing. My mom knows most people in Santa Cruz, so I got a lot of encouragement from the local surfers. The Lane was my local spot so it helped that I knew a lot of people. They would push me to get better and give me waves. When I was learning I didn’t get the set waves, but at least I would get the smaller ones which was good for practicing and to build my skills.
Tell us where on this planet you would like to surf where you haven’t been to yet.
I want to surf Mundaka when it’s good because it’s a perfect left. All you have to do is stand there and you can get an incredible barrel. I would also like to surf Snapper and one of those perfect beach breaks in France.
You have always been a good student. Do you think you will go to college one day?
Yes, maybe I will go to college one day. What I am doing now is working on a program my mom got me. It’s a professional video editing program called Final Cut Pro. After I complete the manuals, I can take the test which will certify me to teach video editing. As far as college, it’s hard to go when you are doing the WQS because the WQS involves so much traveling. But maybe one year when there are not so many contests, it would be cool to go to college. I like Spanish a lot. I also like science and reading.
What is your next big challenge?
I want to do really good at the Cold Water Classic this year, hopefully make the final there and then hopefully make it to the World Pro Junior. That would be a big, huge contest for me.
If you weren’t pursuing a professional surfing career, what would you be doing?
I like golfing but it takes a lot of time. If it was flat for a month, I would go golfing. I’ve always liked cooking, I don’t cook yet, but I’d like to learn. My dad is a good cook and I always like watching him.
Who impresses you the most about their surfing these days?
I have a lot of favorite surfers. Dane Reynolds because he does big turns and huge airs and makes it look super easy. I like how Julian Wilson, Jordy Smith and Clay Marzo surf a lot. Kelly Slater has made a huge impression on me because I think his turns and carves are the best. Whenever someone comes up with a new move, Kelly will always be able to pull that same move off. If someone invents something, Kelly will be able to do it, it’s just amazing. I also like Joel Parkinson because he has such good style and Mick Fanning because he surfs so fast. Bobby Martinez has the best backside. Kieran Horn also surfs super good. If Kieran tried his hardest and focused on the WQS, I think he could easily make the WCT but I don’t think he wants that.
What is the coolest thing you did this year that didn’t involve surfing?
The coolest thing I did outside of surfing was going to Oregon with Nike. I went paintballing, skateboarding, go-kart racing and got to do a bunch of other fun things. I got to design shoes. It’s definitely one of the only times I’ve been away from the water, that I actually had fun. Nike brought every one of their athletes together. We got to see what styles were coming out for next year and we also got to give them feedback. It was really cool.
What is one thing that people don’t know about you?
The one thing that people don’t know about me is that I use to be sponsored for boogie boarding. It was Custom X and I got free boogie boards.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
I see myself hopefully on the WCT. Also I hope to continue having fun with surfing and still get to go on lots of trips.
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INTERVIEW WITH 2008 NATIONAL CHAMPION COURTNEY CONLOGUE
INTERVIEW WITH 2008 NATIONAL OPEN WOMEN’S AND GOVERNOR’S CUP CHAMPION COURTNEY CONLOGUE
“Winning Nationals has always been a very desirable goal for me since I was 10-years-old competing in the Mini Grom division. It took me until now to reach that goal. It may have taken me a while to get a National title but what matters is that I didn’t allow my losses to get the best of me. I’ve learned so much along the way.” – Courtney Conlogue
Courtney Conlogue finally got her National title. The four-time Conference and reigning Regional Champion achieved her dream of Nationals gold beating west coast rival Sage Erickson and Hawaiian standouts Malia Manuel and Leila Hurst who took two titles herself in the Explorer Women’s and Girls’ divisions. Courtney has been on a Nationals mission since virtually the day she donned a NSSA jersey as a 10-year-old Mini Grom. And after five years of sweat, tears and relentless determination there was no stopping the 15-year-old this time as she swept through her preliminary rounds bulldozing her opponents and winning the final with a spirited performance. For Courtney, winning her first National Championship is just the beginning of a dream fulfilled. She will pursue her second straight title in 2009 as well as set her sights on success in World Junior Championship competitions. Two months after her Nationals triumph had sunk in, NSSA Executive Director Janice Aragon caught up with Courtney for a Q&A session to chat about her surfing, her accomplishments, her heavy school load and her future campaign.
NAME: COURTNEY TAYLOR CONLOGUE
AGE: 15 YEARS OLD
SCHOOL: SAGE HILL SCHOOL
GRADE: 11
HOMETOWN: SANTA ANA
LOCAL BREAK: ORANGE COUNTY BEACHES
PALS YOU SURF WITH: DAD, BROTHER, LEXI, DYLAN
PROUDEST MOMENT: WINNING CONFERENCE, REGIONALS, AND NATIONALS ALL IN THE SAME YEAR!!! FINALLY WINNING THE OPEN WOMENS NATIONALS
SPONSORS: BILLABONG, REEF, HUNTINGTON SURF AND SPORT, NIXON, SMITH, SEX WAX, DAKINE, GO211.COM, ZOLA, TOYOTA OF HB, NALUS ISLAND GRILL
Janice Aragon: First let’s start off by getting a brief rundown of how it all began. When did you start surfing and how did you get into it?
Courtney Conlogue: I always remember being at the beach. It’s where we went to relax and hang out every weekend as a family. Everyone always comments on how we live inland but it really isn’t that far away from every beach. We travel all over California for surf. My dad has surfed since he was 12 years old and I learned from him and his friends. We always took trips to Mexico with a large caravan of friends. We would surf and go fishing. I started surfing when I was 4 years old.
What made you want to start competing in contests?
I enjoy competition. I’ve competed in several other sports such as swimming, Tae Kwon Do, track & field, and cross-country. My family surfed together and competition was never a factor until someone approached my parents and told them about NSSA and thought I might enjoy it. My first event was in the Mini Grom division at State Beach in San Clemente. I’ll never forget that one.
You had a tremendous 2007-08 season. The four consecutive record-setting Conference titles, your first Regional title and then the Nationals. Describe the feeling of pulling off each one of those accomplishments.
This year was definitely my best results year in NSSA. Breaking Holly Beck’s record by getting 4 consecutive conference titles was cool. I’m glad that I conquered a few of my goals and obstacles in my amateur surfing career. I found that it also showed me that I was having a bit of consistency in my competitive surfing. Winning my first Regional title was amazing because I was runner up a few years before. In the past I was left looking up at the champ just wanting to finish at the top too. Winning Nationals has always been a very desirable goal for me since I was 10-years-old competing in the Mini Grom division. It took me until now to reach that goal. It may have taken me a while to get a National title but what matters is that I didn’t allow my losses to get the best of me. I also believe that by having to work so hard to get there makes the win mean that much more to me than getting it the first year I started competing. I’ve learned so much along the way.
How did you train for the Nationals?
Every year of competing has been preparation to win Nationals. Every session I have done has given me more experience on how to be one with the ocean and a better competitor. This year I came into the season not wanting to lose. I lost out in the quarters the year before against two Hawaiians in my own backyard. I didn’t want to have that happen again.
Who did you train with?
I train with my mom, dad, brother, sister, and a few coaches. I had just finished track & field this year with my high school team just before Nationals. I took up pole vaulting too.
Tell me about the board you rode at the Nationals and how it worked at Lowers?
I rode my “old faithful” which I have had for a few years. It was shaped by Bushman (5’9”, 18 1/8, 2 1/8). It responded to the waves and me completely for Nationals. It has now officially been retired.
What was going through your head on Finals day?
I had a lot on my mind that day: wanting to win, how to get there and just getting mentally ready for the moment.
How were your nerves before the Open Women’s final? Did you feel the pressure was on for you to win it?
I think everyone has the pressure to win the Nationals if they’re in the final. To have the ability to control the emotions, stress, and everything has to do a lot with who becomes the champ. At every Nationals your sponsors are there, a huge crowd is screaming and hooting on the beach, and then there is just you having to give your best performance and to give everyone a show. Every surfer has their nerves and performance jitters in an event. No one wants to be the first place loser. I always feel that as an athlete you are always pressuring yourself to succeed. In surfing it all depends on you and your results. For the most part surfing is an individual sport. I don’t think the pressure was coming from anyone else but me to win Nationals.
You are now finally a National Champion after five hard years of grit and determination. After it all sank in, describe the feeling of reaching one of the highest pinnacles of amateur surfing?
It meant a lot to me to get a National title. It is definitely one less monkey on my back. I felt super excited and relieved to finally have that completed all the way through. It is something I will always have and can never be taken away.
Why is the Nationals such a tough contest to win?
Nationals is tough to win because there is always so much talent in amateur surfing coming to this event. It’s important to have your top performance on if you want to be the best. The best in the nation come to compete and to win.
Did your sponsors do anything cool for you after your victory?
Billabong sent me flowers and gave me the new flip video camera. But what mattered to me was that I accomplished it for myself. It means a lot for me to be able to climb another step in my ladder.
Who was your favorite surfer to watch at the Nationals?
Nat Young for sure! He was on fire! He wanted it really bad from the start of the year. Just in 1 year he brought his surfing to another level.
What motivates you to achieve your goals?
I’d have to say what motivates me to win is just pure competition against others in my sport. I want to continue to grow and understand what it takes to be the best. I want to continue to try and figure out the ocean.
Who are the greatest influences on your surfing and why?
Lisa Andersen and Brad Gerlach. Lisa was able to get 4 ASP World titles and become the best without any support from her parents. She wanted it so much and she didn’t let anything get in the way of her love for surfing. Brad has the skill, compassion, and the knowledge to be the best. He charges the biggest waves in the world and rips on small waves at HB. He has mental strength and knows how to control his pressures, feelings, and emotions. They set great examples for me for many different reasons.
I notice you never whine about the judging even when things don’t go your way.
I don’t whine about the judging at any event. I leave the judging to the judges. I believe that if I didn’t win I made a mistake by not demonstrating full domination during the heat over my competition enough and didn’t make it obvious that I should win the heat. I also think that when I lose even if I thought I won or a call on an interference isn’t made – I walk away learning from the experience. It isn’t my part to complain about a judge’s call. Everyone is human and you can’t win it all the time.
What’s it like handling your intense school schedule and staying on top of your game in surfing?
It is definitely tough everyday during the school year. I walk into the classroom wanting to learn and gain some new knowledge and hang with my friends. A lot of my courses can’t be done on the road such as Chemistry or even Spanish.
What school subjects will you be taking next year?
I will be studying Geometry, US History, Biology, Art Fundamentals, Spanish III, English III, and Golfing!
You also enjoy other sports. What other sports are you into or competing in?
I’m on the track & field team and compete in the 400, 800, 4 x 100m, 4 x 400m, and pole vaulting. I love martial arts. I was 1 test away from getting my black belt in Tae Kwon Do when my teacher became ill. I’ll take it up again someday when I have more time again. I really enjoy swimming and after a session of surfing I’ll swim towers. When I was younger I was on a swim team. I love archery but haven’t had a lot of time lately to practice. I’m taking up golf at school. I’ve never played before but I’m looking forward to it.
How important will be defending your National title in 2009?
Very important!!! It is always fun trying to defend titles.
You started competing so young when you were 10-years-old in the Mini Grom division. What advice do you have for young girl surfers who are just starting out?
Don’t let the negative people in life bring you down, feel weak, or worthless. It doesn’t matter if you win or lose as long as you don’t quit and never stop doing what you love or want to do and try.
What would you do to improve things in Women’s professional surfing?
Create an organization that governs only women’s professional surfers just like they have in other sports. That way the focus and finances would be set for the women and not shared.
Besides your NSSA accomplishments, what stands out as your biggest achievements thus far?
Competing in the WCT at Honolua Bay placing 9th, getting 1st at the Van’s event, becoming the ASP North American Jr Pro champ last year, getting to the podium in France during the ISA Jr World Championships and never getting in the losers rounds.
What are your expectations for 2008-09?
Defend my NSSA National title, do well at the Billabong and ISA Jr World Championships, and just try to do well at keeping everything balanced with school and competing.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
On the WCT getting World titles, helping with global causes such as Surfaid, and trying new things.
Name someone you would really like to meet and why.
I would want to meet the most successful business people such as Bill Gates and others that make good choices and try new ideas.
What is the best advice that anyone has ever given to you?
Take no prisoners!
Anyone you would like to thank?
I would like to thank my whole entire family: Dad, Mom, Charleen, Ryan, Sage Hill School, my coaches, Janice and Gayline, my team managers, and all my sponsors. Thank you for supporting me as I continue my learning, searching and growing.
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TIMMY REYES INTERVIEW: Timmy speaks about his NSSA days and life on the WQS and the WCT: Check it out!
THE TIMMY REYES INTERVIEW
By: Janice Aragon
Like most red-blooded American young surfers, Timmy Reyes grew up in the NSSA. Competitiveness was embedded in his DNA. Throughout his NSSA years, he had a burning desire to win and was passionate about improving his surfing and his contest results. Even though he never won a National title, his final amateur year was a telltale sign that he was destined for success.
Check this out: It was the 1999/00 season, Timmy’s senior year at Edison High School and final year in the NSSA. The year prior, Mike Todd had dominated the season but he had graduated and was out of the picture. This was Timmy’s year and he was out for blood. However the first contest of the season at San Onofre wasn’t exactly what Timmy had envisioned. He got his butt handed to him. “I paddled out in my first heat and ended up not catching a single good wave,” Timmy said. “I walked up to the car and it was the first time I’d been in tears about losing since I was a little kid. I was like ‘Mom, I’m going to win every single contest from now on. I’m seriously going to do it.’” Well Timmy nearly did just that. He went on an incredible run winning 12 contests and in the end finished the season with both the Open and Explorer conference crowns.
2006 was Timmy's second year on the WCT. He was cranking out a much improved season and after Mundaka, the 24 year old HB local was ranked 11th while trailing elite top 10 status by less than 100 points. However, his shot at a top 10 showing after only two years on the tour went right out the window when he sustained a season-ending knee injury in his semi final heat at the WQS Cold Water Classic. He will now have to wait until 2007 to launch a new climb up the ‘CT ladder but if I know Timmy, this minor setback will just make him hungrier than ever.
THE REYES FILE
Name: Timothy Charles Reyes Jr.
Born: June 9, 1982, West Covina, Ca.
Education: 2000 graduate, Edison High School, Huntington Beach, Ca.
Family: Mom, Julie; Dad, Tim Sr; Sister, Michelle; Girlfriend, Taylor
Amateur Career highlights: 2000 NSSA Southwest Open Mens and Explorer Juniors Champion; 2000 NSSA High School Men’s State Champion; 1999 National Championships 5th place Open Mens division.
Pro Career highlights: 1st place 2004 Heritage Pro Atlantic City (WQS 3 Star); 1st place 2004 Unsound Pro Long Island (WQS 2 Star); 3rd place 2006 Rip Curl Search Mexico (WCT); 3rd place 2005 Billabong Pro Jeffreys Bay (WCT)
Sponsors: O’Neill, Jacks, Vans, Odyssey 20/20, Timmy Patterson Surfboards
JANICE ARAGON: Ok, let’s cut to the chase. What exactly happened to you at Steamer Lane in the Cold Water Classic and are you going to need surgery?
TIMMY REYES: I was surfing in the semi-finals; I did a floater in a turbulent wave and landed with just my left leg on the board. My right leg was off and it made my left leg bend down at a weird angle and pop some ligaments in my knee. I rode a couple waves down to the Duke statue and I couldn’t walk. I had some of my friends bring me back to the contest site. It was pretty crazy. I was kind of in shock and I was feeling sick because it hurt so bad. I came home the next morning and went to Warren Kramer’s office, had an MRI on my left knee and the next day learned that I would have to have surgery. I was really bummed out. It’s my ACL and some other things. It’s not horrible though and it’s something that happens to a lot of surfers and a lot of people in different sports. So on the 30th of November, I’m going to have to go under the knife to repair the ACL.
How long will you be out for?
The recovery time is expected to be about 6-8 weeks.
What are you doing to keep in shape?
I’ve been laying down a lot and driving myself crazy because I have this “ADD” problem about sitting still. But I’ve been going into the gym a little bit and lifting some light weights. After that I go for a swim for a half hour and kick with my right leg and swim with my arms but just drag my left leg because I don’t want to damage it any further.
I must admit when I saw you in the Cold Water draw, I was like "Hmmm, why is he doing a WQS event that he doesn’t need when he is ranked so close to the top 10 of the WCT with two important events remaining on the schedule?"
I love surfing up in Santa Cruz. My girlfriend lives in Santa Cruz. The Cold Water is one of the big three that you want to win in California and I thought this year I would have a really good chance of winning the contest. It’s really important for me to win the Cold Water, the US Open and Lowers. I made the semi final at the US Open and a final last year at the Cold Water so I’m getting really close. I felt I could win one and that’s what I was there to do. But I guess I kind of made a mistake.
So let’s start from the beginning. How old were you when you started surfing and who did you learn from?
The first time I stood up I was five years old. My parents moved to Huntington when I was about 8 years old. When I was 9, I started surfing every weekend. Then when I was 12, I started surfing everyday because I was old enough to cross PCH. I would surf Newland Street consistently everyday until I was about 15. Then I started riding my bicycle to the Pier or River Jetties or Newport.
When did you start competing?
My first NSSA contest was at River Jetties. I was 12 and I got second. I was super, super stoked because it was my first surfing trophy. All I had up to that time was baseball trophies and to get my first surfing trophy I was so excited. I wanted to win, but I was just so stoked to get second. I remember Anthony Petruso won that one.
One thing I must say watching you grow up in NSSA is that you use to get really mad at yourself in heats. You never blamed anyone but yourself (not the judges, not the conditions, etc) when things didn’t go your way. Do you think that maybe helped you once you turned pro?
In surfing, I think I’m more of a perfectionist than anybody else. If I surf a wave and I don’t like the way I’m surfing on it like a wrong bottom turn or wrong top turn, I will be bummed at myself. I did use to blow up because I was pissed off at myself because I really wanted to win. I knew I could win and I was constantly blowing it until my last two years as an amateur when I finally figured it out. I never got mad at the judging. It all came down to my surfing. If I was satisfied, I normally made it through the heat or won the contest. If I was dissatisfied, I would get bad scores which I deserved. I think because of that, I’ve done well and I’ve learned how to control my temperament. It’s funny now that I look back on it, I want that fire back. I was thinking about this the other day. I’ve been kind of mellow lately and maybe it’s making me slow down. I think next year I may have to bring out the weapons. Get more crazy (laughs)! Sometimes now in heats on the WCT, I think I have been surfing a little bit too polished and I’ve been trying to break my habit of that. I’m just going to start free surfing in my heats. I think when I free surf; I can beat a lot of people. It happens here and there but it is hard to always stay on your game. Consistently I’ve been good. I don’t care about losing in my first heat. I would rather go for the win or go for nothing at all. Sometimes you have to do that.
I use your story and the way you approached competition as blueprint to kids that are currently surfing in the NSSA. Nowadays, many of the top kids only care about one thing-a National title. Some of them approach the regular season contests with a halfhearted attitude. You may have never won a National title, but you used your years here to really develop your skills and contest savvy. You surfed all contests with 110% effort whether it was the Open, Explorer or the Nationals. Do you think the way you did things as an amateur helped you succeed on the WQS?
I think you have to be really versatile to all conditions and different competition. I think being competitive all year is going to show you how good you are in the long run. You have to be consistent. You can’t just slouch around and wait for Nationals. I think to win Nationals is the hugest thing for a kid to win. I never won a title and honestly, I really, really wanted one. It was a bummer that I never won the Nationals but in the long run I was so stoked to win both the Open and Explorer seasons in my last year. For me, to take charge all year and win the season was better than winning one big contest like the Nationals. It’s hard to stay consistent through a whole year and that year I could see my opponents’ weather down or get angry. I was watching myself go from behind all the way to the top and I worked hard for it. I think it’s harder to do that then win just one contest. I was really, really happy it happened that way.
You didn't take the homeschool route. You went to Edison High School, competed on the surf team and won the NSSA State Championships in the High School Mens division. Now it seems like 90% of the kids are homeschooled because they want to travel or just surf all the time. Do you think it benefited you to stay in public school?
My parents really wanted me to stay in school. They wanted me to receive my diploma the real way and I did. I had a lot of friends at Edison. I didn’t surf any less than any of the homeschool kids. You can miss school every once in a while and that’s what I did. I went to Hawaii and had a couple other fun trips. It’s good for kids to experience some travel, but you can’t travel 365 days. School is only nine months and then you have the summer break. I was stoked I did school. Some of my friends did homeschool and if you get your schooling done either way, it’s all good.
Who were your main rivals in the NSSA?
Anthony Petruso, Micah Byrne, Dylan Slater and Bobby Martinez. I only surfed against Bobby in the Opens because he was competing in the Gold Coast for the Explorer. When it came down to Nationals everyone was a great surfer, similar to today. Everyone was surfing at a level that I have never seen for young kids. I was always really scared to surf in that contest.
Let’s talk about your last year in NSSA. You went on a winning rampage with 12 victories over the regular season of course winning both Open and Explorer conference titles. Tell the story of what inspired that amazing season.
The previous season I hurt my knee in the middle of the year. Mike Todd and I were really competitive with each other. Then I blew my knee out. Mike went on a hot streak and my season was pretty much done. He was ripping that year, surfing like a grown man with more speed and rail compared to all of us. At the end of that season I started back up getting decent results but just spent most of the time rehabbing my knee. After the Nationals, I spent everyday surfing and training for the new season. I knew I could win a lot of events, especially because Mike Todd and Bobby had graduated. I had to contend with Micah Byrne, Anthony Petruso and Dylan Slater my three nemeses for sure. We were constantly tearing at each other’s limbs and trying to eat each other alive! The first event to kick off the season was at San Onofre. I came down there with my mom and my sister. I remember walking down the trail and the conditions were pretty good. I paddled out in my first heat and ended up not catching a single good wave. I was so frustrated. Everyone was getting good waves around me. I was so bummed, it was a new season and I had lost. I couldn’t believe it. I walked up to the car and it was the first time I’d been in tears about losing since I was a little kid. I was like “Mom, I’m going to win every single contest from now on. I’m seriously going to do it.” She of course was sad for me but reassuring. I had something in my heart that said, “This is lame and I’ll forget about it when I win the next event.” Then I won the next contest and I just couldn’t believe it because I said I was going to do it! My frown turned into a smirk. And then I just kept winning. It was like something I can’t explain. I felt like a train. Waves were coming to me. My competitors would say, “How are you getting all these waves? What the h*** are you doing?” Then when I won the twelfth contest in Oceanside it was against Micah Byrne. He wanted to win the contest really bad. He got a wave and I watched him surf the wave. I caught the next wave and it was a really good wave. Afterwards, he splashed water at me because he knew the wave was good enough for me to win it. When I accepted my trophy, I was happy with 12 because it’s my favorite number. I think I rode a dozen different surfboards during that streak and everyone of those boards was good. I was pushing myself to paddle harder, to catch more waves. They were 15 minute heats so you had to be in shape and I was. I wanted to surf every wave as good as I could.
Why do you think it helped you to try your hardest to win the conference title? You are going for that conference title and surfing every contest through the year, you’re going after that title with every wave. I tried to surf every wave my best. I planned out heats. I had to watch my competitors because we didn’t have the scoring system. I knew if someone was surfing really good at the contest, then I needed to step it up.
Who were your mentors when you were growing up?
When I was younger I looked up to the new school surfing style. Guys like Cory Lopez and Chris Ward. They were like two age groups ahead of me. I would watch them and say, “Oh, my God, I need to surf like them.” I would watch Andy Irons at the Nationals. He was amazing. I wanted to do everything they did. I like some of the old school surfers as well like Tom Curren and Matt Archbold.
How long were you on the WQS until you finally made the WCT?
I was on the WQS for four years until I qualified. It wasn’t easy. It is very, very hard. It’s something that you know you have to go into 100% or more or you’re not going to make it. Sometimes it takes people one year if they are really lucky, sometimes it takes people ten years. I came through it after four years and I actually knew I was going to qualify on my fourth year. Through my surfing and through my results each of those four years, I progressed about 40 or 50 spots each year. It’s like I graduated my senior year to the WCT. You are surfing against 2,000 people. You are going to get beat by somebody who has no sponsors, no wax, half a boardshort, its crazy (laughs)! I was really lucky to qualify my fourth year. It was the same year that Fred Patacchia and Chris Ward qualified so there were three of us going to the WCT from America. It was a huge thing.
How are the waves on the WQS?
Other than Margaret River and Hawaii bring your shortboard and grovel board. My fourth year, I finally had all the spots figured out and I traveled with three boards to every event. A lot of people travel on tour with two board bags full of boards. I knew that I was going to do good with my three weapons that I had in my one board bag. People would say “Where’s all your boards?” I would say, “All I need is my three, my wetsuits and my boardshorts.” I carried my clothes in my backpack. When you travel on tour, it’s really hard to travel with those big board bags, so you just start learning how to cut things away from your life that aren’t necessary like computers and cell phones. You almost have to detach yourself from everything you know and stay with your friends on tour.
How was your first year on the WCT?
The first year you don’t really know what to expect. There were six events where I lost first heat. It’s really tough. You've got to be in it to win it or you’re going to get beat.
Who was your first ever heat with on the WCT?
My first draw was Danny Wills. It was at Snapper and it’s a really hard wave to surf if you haven’t surfed it before. Danny lives at the Gold Coast and he got some magical waves. I got a pair of 6.0’s that weren’t good enough. I was also really nervous.
What boards are you riding these days?
I’m riding Timmy Patterson surfboards 100%. 5’11” X 18 1/8 X 2 1/8 round pins. I use FCS because it’s easier to travel with.
How many boards do you travel with?
It’s kind of hard to prepare for a lot of the waves on the ‘CT. You start off at Gold Coast where you are going to want something a little smaller and then Bells is the total opposite. It has more power so you could ride anything from your shortboard to like a 6’10.” For me, I don’t really ride big boards, even in Hawaii, so I don’t need anything bigger than a 6’6” I could ride a pretty big wave with a board that’s 5-7 inches longer than my shortboard.
Do you think the judging is different on the WCT as compared to the WQS?
It’s a lot different on the WCT. They see a big aerial maneuver and it’s more like just one insane turn scoring wise. If you do a big aerial and then follow it up with a couple big turns, that is when the ‘CT judges will give you a big score. On the WQS, you do one big air and they give you a 9. On the WCT you have to separate your surfing a lot from the other guys to be scored higher. They judge more heat by heat. The scale changes even through heats sometimes. On the ‘CT, if you’re surfing really good and blowing people out of the water and you stand out the judges are going to score you better. If you show the judges you’re there to win, they are going to notice that. The judges will look at you, the way you enter the water, the way you paddle, they check out your attitude and I learned how to clean that up real fast (laughs)!
How badly do you want to be a world champion?
Not bad enough yet actually. I’m going to wait a couple years to answer that. My story is now. My goal was to make the top 16 this year because I finished 31st last year. Next year is top 10. The next year after that is top 5 and then we’ll see after that.
What is your favorite wave on the tour?
Probably Jeffreys Bay. I love the speed you carry on the wave and if you barely make a move on the wave, it feels like your throwing a hundred feet of spray. It’s an amazing wave. It’s a super green barrel. It’s like a racetrack, a perfect wave. It’s a dream.
What’s your favorite wave in the world?
I like the rush from big, late takeoffs like Backdoor and Teahupoo. I love Hawaii because it’s so intense.
How do you prepare for the contests?
I really don’t prepare. Actually I have to learn how to do that better. Normally I arrive 2-3 days early but there are 46 surfers on the tour so it’s really hard to practice at the actual spot. I just go on my own program, maybe just go surf around the area. As long as I get wet and use the same board I’m using in the contest, I’ll be ready.
Do you have any good friends on the tour?
I socialize with everybody. I don’t have a best friend on the tour. My best friend is my girlfriend Taylor because I take her everywhere. My good friends are Cory Lopez and Chris Ward. I just try and hang out with everybody. The Brazilians are really good people. You start finding friends on tour that you can relate to and have a serious conversation with. Some people are more real than others.
What is the hardest part about being a professional surfer?
The hardest thing for me is if I’m not doing well. It all comes down to points and the ratings. It’s sometimes really stressful on you if you’re not doing well. Anything with ratings and points, it’s going to be hard and stressful. Sometimes it’s not fun but when you do good or win, it’s all worth it because you work so hard to get good results.
What is your scariest surfing experience?
I’ve had a couple of pretty bad wipeouts. Last year, we had to save somebody from drowning at Cloudbreak on a big day when guys were towing in. It wasn’t giant but it was big enough to do damage. It was the day Kelly had his worst wipeout he said he has ever had. I duck dove a wave and I went over with the lip. The wave was probably 4-5 times overhead. I went completely over the falls head first and buried myself under the reef. I came up like two waves later. The next wave was on top of my head. I bailed my board and got sucked over the falls again. I got pushed to the inside at the spot they call “Shishkabobs.” Finally I was out of harms way and then the Jet Ski came and got me out of there. I’ve taken a lot of beatings. I had a bad one when I was a little kid out at Sunset also. It looked like a hundred foot wave. I had never surfed that wave before and it was so big it was closing out the channel. Early drama in my experience over there (laughs).
Do you have any other hobbies besides surfing?
Actually I just bought a computer and I’m trying to figure it out so that’s my new hobby. I’m trying to get myself up to date with all the technology. I love swimming and diving, anything to do with the ocean.
You use to have the thickest, muscular legs when you were in NSSA. I mean those things were buff. I remember you use to run on the beach back then. Do you still do that?
I don’t run on the beach that much anymore so my legs kind of shrunk. But you’ve just inspired me. I’m bringing them back (laughs)! I have to bring back the Tom Carroll legs. People use to tell me I had Tom Carroll legs.
Where do you see yourself in 20 years?
I think as you get older you get wiser. I definitely want a family. I would want to have a killer house on the beach somewhere. Or maybe in the mountains because after this I might be tired of surfing. Something close to nature. I would love to work in the surf industry because I love watching all people surf. I love watching the WCT contests. I love going back to the NSSA contests because it brings back memories of myself. I just went to the Open Season at Brookhurst and the kids were ripping and it was cool.
Name something people don’t know about you.
(Laughs) Well, I like taking long hot showers in the morning. Other than that, I just don’t worry about anything in general. I’m bad at answering my phone. I’m really laid back and never on time.
Any thank yous?
To Janice and Gayline and the NSSA for helping me achieve my dreams. My Mom, Dad and sister Michelle. And to everyone else out there who has helped me; you know who you are! J
TIMMY AND JANICE.
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DILLON PERILLO: THE NATIONAL OPEN JUNIOR CHAMP SPEAKS!
DILLON PERILLO – THE NATIONAL OPEN JUNIOR CHAMP SPEAKS!
TWILIGHT LIPPER OFF THE PISMO PIER AT GOLD COAST EVENT #4 photo: Chris Keet/SurfHappens
Dillon’s first competitive season was in the Gold Coast Conference in 2003-04 where he finished sixth in the Explorer Boys ratings. He didn’t really attract attention until the 04-05 season when he came down south and surfed in the Open Juniors. He put together a solid season finishing third with five finals appearances and one victory. Fast forward to 05-06 and the Malibu local was quickly accelerating to the top of the ratings charts. Eyebrows were raised when he pulled double victories in both the Men’s and Juniors divisions at the Newport Open. He ended up second in the Juniors ratings behind Andrew Doheny and was under the radar as a National title contender. Even after coming off of an impressive season, he was still considered a longshot, especially when you have Granger Larsen, Andrew, John John Florence and Alex Smith breathing down your neck. Dillon will be the first to admit that his Nationals victory was a stunner. “I was surprised; I didn’t think I was going to win. I got really lucky, I think. I got one of the most perfectly lined up waves I saw the whole time I was down there. That wave came to me right off the buzzer.” The wave was a Lowers dream and he lit it up to the tune of 9’s from the judges. Skunked for the next 19 plus minutes, he caught one more wave just before time expired on the clock locking in a 4.5 score which was the clincher.
Full Name: Dillon Gerrard Perillo
Birthdate: May 13, 1990
Hometown: Malibu, Ca
School: Malibu High School
Grade: 11
Sponsors: Hurley, Roberts, DC, Smith, IGBS, Ladera, Sex Wax
JANICE ARAGON: Do you remember the first time you went surfing?
DILLON PERILLO: My dad took me when I was five. I was scared but after a while I started catching my own waves. It was like one foot white wash and I just went straight.
How long have you been surfing in the NSSA?
3 years.
What is your local surf spot?
Zuma.
Who is your local crew?
Sam McGee, Anthony Petruso, Pascal Stansfield, Max Baumann and a bunch of other people.
Where is your favorite place to surf and why?
Tavarua because it’s perfect and there is a limited amount of people there. I’ve been there twice.
What is the best thing about growing up and surfing in the Malibu area?
You can get uncrowded waves because there are beachbreaks there and they are always blown out after school. There is like a whole stretch that’s about five miles long.
What’s the scene like at Malibu?
It’s different. I pretty much surf there everyday when I’m home. It’s a cool scene but it’s really different, I can’t explain it.
Is it like it was back in the Gidget days?
It’s not like that but it’s just different. Some kids will be into surfing and other kids will be fully messed up. I don’t know, it’s weird. I don’t get it. It’s not normal. But I like it there.
How often do you surf?
I try to surf everyday as much as I can. I don’t have anything else to do that’s better.
What is your best move?
Airs I guess. Anything can be good, depending on how well you do it. You could have a huge turn throwing tail and air dropping down, or a big air or a good barrel or something. It just matters how well you do it.
What is the scariest wave you have surfed?
Sunset. It’s huge, there is a lot of current and it’s hard to get waves because the locals are crazy.
What did you do this summer?
Nationals and then I went to the Mentawaiis for a month. It was the best trip of my life. We got a lot of swell, the wind was perfect, and every wave was perfect. My dad, Nat Young and a bunch of friends from Malibu went on that trip.
What is your favorite subject?
Probably math.
Do you have any other hobbies besides surfing?
No.
What sport would you be in if you didn’t surf?
Basketball.
Who are your favorite pro surfers and why?
Dane Reynolds because he’s a really good free surfer. Everything he does is so crazy. The stuff no one else can pull. Andy Irons because he is one of my favorite contest surfers. Everything he does is perfected.
Who are your favorite NSSA surfers and why?
Granger because his style is retardedly good. Clay Marzo, he’s crazy.
This year you nailed your first National victory. How did it feel to win a prestigious Open title?
Surprised because I didn’t think I was going to win. Usually Granger wins and Alex Smith is pretty good too. I got really lucky, I think. That first wave I got, the set wave it just lined up perfect. It was one of the most perfectly lined up waves I saw the whole time I was down there. It had the best sections, it wasn’t mushy at all. There was a lip every time, I just kept hitting it and hitting it. That wave came in right at the starting buzzer. I only got two waves that whole heat. I got a 9.0 and a 4.5. Then I just sat the whole heat, I couldn’t get another wave until the last minute. I was so nervous on that second wave. All I needed was a 4. Every turn, I didn’t want to fall because there was only a minute left. I just tried to get the score without falling.
If your surfboard could have talked to you after the final, what would it have said?
Good job.
How did you celebrate your victory?
I had sushi that night with my parents. I was just so surprised and stoked, I didn’t really do anything.
Did your sponsors hook you up?
Yea, Hurley did. Sex Wax and Smith did too
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What are your goals for this season?
Try to win the Nationals again.
With only 3 years under your belt, what has inspired you to constantly push yourself?
Fame, money and fun.
What is the best thing about surfing in the NSSA?
Practice for sure. I do NSSA’s because they are fun and I want to get ready for the ‘QS. It’s all about practice. I want to make the WCT.
What is the best advice anyone has given to you?
Everyone tells me not to get mad after my heats but I still do.
Name something people don’t know about you.
I use to play basketball a lot. I was just as serious about basketball as I am about surfing now. But once I started surfing, I didn’t want to play basketball anymore, at least seriously.
Anyone you would like to thank?
Parents, sponsors and the NSSA.
Finish this sentence-If I had lots of money I would ---
---Live in the Mentawaiis on a big boat-a 100 foot catamaran. A really big boat and really good waves, that’s all I need. J
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